The fleece of cashmere goats is made up of two distinct fibers: the coarse outer hair and the ultra-fine cashmere undercoat. The coarse outer hair is called guard hair. Guard hairs are the longest thickest hairs in the animal’s coat. They taper to a point and protect the fine soft undercoat from the elements. Guard hairs are often waterproof and stick out above the rest of the coat. The fine undercoat (under 18.5 microns) is the source of cashmere fiber for clothing.
Cashmere is produced from a variety of different goats in different countries around the world.
Cashmere is the perfect fabric for many types of clothing because it is soft, light-weight and durable yet it is able to keep the wearer very warm. Garments made of pure cashmere have a distinctive feel unlike any other natural clothing fiber. Demand increased for sweaters, suits, coats and even socks made of cashmere because the low bulk and high loft of genuine cashmere fiber creates one of the softest, warmest, most comfortable garments money can buy.
Cashmere is produced in a region that extends from North Eastern China west to Iran. Today sixty percent of the world’s supply of cashmere is produced in Mongolia where millions of cashmere goats are raised commercially in the Gobi desert area of both inner and outer Mongolia. This particular geographical region has the same harsh weather conditions of the Himalayas but it also has thousands and thousands of acres of grazing ground. This unique combination of geography and climate creates a perfect environment for the economic and commercial production of the soft inner “cashmere” fiber.
The quality of the cashmere produced in the Gobi desert today is often a higher quality than that produced in the Indian state of Kashmir located in the Himalayas (the origin of the word cashmere) because the Gobi desert region has developed more modern and consistent manufacturing processes. The remaining supply of the world’s cashmere comes from Turkey, Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, the Kashmir region of India, Australia and New Zealand.
Cashmere is luxuriously soft, with a very high nap and loft thereby providing natural light-weight insulation without bulk. It is extremely warm (in order to serve its original purpose of protecting goats from cold mountain temperatures). Fibers are highly adaptable and are easily woven into fine or thick yarns for creating light to heavy-weight fabrics appropriate for all climates. Cashmere fabric has a unique insulation property that allows it to change with the relative humidity in the air.
The specialty animal hair fibers are collected during molting seasons when the animals naturally shed their hairs. Goats molt during a several-week period in spring. In China and Mongolia, the down is removed by hand with a coarse comb. In Iran, Afghanistan, New Zealand and Australia the animals are sheared. When necessary the coarse hairs and down hairs of cashmere goats are separated by a mechanical process known as de-hairing. A cashmere goat will, on average produce about 4 to 6 ounces of the underdown used in the production of cashmere. The natural color of the underdown is gray, brown or white.
Cashmere vs Pashmina
Much confusion now exists about the term “pashmina”. The popularity of products (particularly shawls) marketed as “pashmina” has skyrocketed in recent years. But many consumers are understandably uncertain about what the word pashmina means when they see it on a label. Much of that confusion and uncertainty is the result of the fact that some manufacturers use the term pashmina to describe an ultra fine cashmere fiber. Others use the term to describe a blend of cashmere and silk. Technically there is no fiber called “pashmina” that is separate and distinct from the wool fiber called cashmere.
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) encourages manufacturers and sellers of products described as pashmina to explain to consumers on a hangtag what they mean by the term. It is not sufficient for a label to simply say “100% pashmina” because pashmina is not a labeling term recognized by the Wool Products Labeling Act. To comply with U.S. clothing labeling requirements the tag should indicate exactly what fibers are used to produce the garment. For example: 80% cashmere, 20% silk.
Adding even further to consumer uncertainty and confusion about "pashmina" is the fact that some imported fabric suppliers and garment manufacturers will intentionally misrepresent the content of a garment in order to unfairly trade on the “luxury” image of the term pashmina. Many so called "pashminas" today are actually made of wool or viscose (rayon-like material) or even acrylic or polyester and may, therefore be sold at a greatly discounted price. Because of that practice, unless one knows the reliability of the source of the fabric or the clothing being purchased great uncertainty can exist about the accuracy of the information one finds on a label.
Pashmina is the name for a certain type of cashmere. The main difference between "cashmere" and "pashmina" seems to be the diameter of the fiber of the goat’s undercoat. Pashmina goat hair fibers are apparently finer and thinner than mere “cashmere”. Some say the pashmina from Nepal is the best quality because of the harsh cold climate the mountain goats are exposed to high in those mountains of the Himalayas.
Pashmina Goats, Ladakh
Crest Jewel carries both cashmere and “pashmina” shawls. Our suppliers of both cashmere and pashmina are well known and trusted. For us, the term pashmina describes an extremely fine cashmere fiber that is absolutely precious. Contact us if you are interested in our pashmina.
What is Shahtoosh?
Shahtoosh Ring Shawl
Shahtoosh is a Persian word that means “king of fine wools”. A shahtoosh shawl was so fine it would pass through a ring. These exquisite shawls were referred to as “ring shawls”. Today the name “ring shawl” applies to fine Pashmina shawls that will pass through a man’s ring.
High Quality Pashmina “Ring Shawl”
Shahtoosh is used to describe a particular kind of shawl woven from the very delicate down hair fibers of the Tibetan migratory antelope also known as the Chiru. These delicate hairs typically measure between 9 and 11 micrometers. The Chiru live at elevations of approximately 14-15,000 feet in the Himalayas. Their down fur is exceptionally light and warm and is an aid to their survival in the harsh climate typical at that elevation.
Tibetan Antelope (Chiru)
During the British occupation of India the skill necessary to weave the delicate down fiber of theChiru antelope into a shawl was reserved to the weavers of Kashmir because of their previous skill in handling the finest pashmina wool. Victorian England prized the famous "ring shawls" of Kashmir woven so finely that the entire shawl could literally pass through a lady's wedding band. A shawl woven from the down of the Chiru was a shawl of unbelievably exquisite quality.
Demand for these shawls grew as they were introduced to the world and consequently the Chiru antelope was hunted for its fur almost to the point of extinction. This antelope is now listed as an endangered species which provides it with the highest level of legal protection. The selling of Shahtoosh is now illegal in all countries that have signed the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species. The United States, China and India are cracking down on those involved in the trading of Shahtoosh but illegal hunting and the selling of Shahtoosh is still a serious problem in Tibet.
The shahbanotoosh (fabric for queens) that we carry consists of 90% cashmere and 10% silk. It is woven using a special patented technique to match the softness and feel of the famous Shahtoosh “ring” shawls — shawls that will literally pass through a ladies wedding band. In our opinion, the softness of our shahbanotoosh fabric is unmatched by any other cashmere fabric available in the market.
Shahbanotoosh "Ring Shawl"
Cashmere Garment Care
Cashmere fiber should be cared for like any other fine woolen. To keep them looking new, follow these steps:
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Hand wash knits with cold water, using a fine washable soap. Woven garments should be dry cleaned.
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Fold knitwear with tissue and store flat in a drawer; do not hang on hangers.
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Hang woven garments on padded hangers, zippered and buttoned with pants and shirts on hangers designed for them.
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Give garments a rest after each wearing for at least 24 hours to allow wrinkles to vanish.
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Treat stains as quickly as possible; rinse immediately with cold water; hot water may set the stain. If garments get wet, allow to dry away from direct heat, then brush with the nap.
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At season's end, clean and store garments in an uncrowded garment bag in a cool, dry place; fold knits and store in a chest or drawer; moth crystals or spray will help protect garments from moths.
